Jin Shan

Tucked into a quiet corner of Zhejiang Province, the village of Jin Shan sits above the heat of the valley, reached by a winding road through dark pines and pale bamboo, ending at the ochre walls of Jin Shan Monastery. Monks here have been making tea for centuries, and the craft shows in every detail.

The leaves are twisted by hand into thin, tip-laden coils, then finished over hot woks and charcoal, a step that provides the pale khaki liquor its defining character. That finish weaves a gentle smokiness and something close to roasted sorrel into what might otherwise be a straightforward light green, and a thread of lemon brightness keeps the cup clean and alive.